A very late New Year's Post

So I started this post a little over two weeks into the new year, and there seems to be a lot to report on already. I'd like to start just before the new year, with the trip I took on the 30th, 31st, and 1st. I went to Robertsport with a small group of friends to celebrate New Year's at the beach. The adventure started early on this trip--on the drive down to Robertsport. Robertsport is about 3 hours or so outside of Monrovia. Six of us started this trip, taking two cars and mini-caravaning it down there. About an hour and a half or so into the trip, John's car (the one I was in with three others), started shifting strangely. We pulled over and realized that transmission fluid was leaking out very quickly. As the car had been serviced the previous day, we suspected that while fixing it they had created a new problem. To err on the side of safety and caution, we decided to turn around and go back to Monrovia to take the car back to the garage and have them take a look. Because the car was leaking so profusely, towing seemed to be the best option. It didn't seem so funny anymore that John had earlier joked about having a tow rope in his car just in case. The Tata (a small pick-up) began towing our large explorer sized car back to the city. About 15 minutes into the return journey, we pulled over to see if we could find some transmission fluid just in case, knowing that there were going to be a few places where we'd have to unhook and drive John's car and wanting extra supplies just in case. As we pulled back out onto the road after an unsuccessful stop, the tow rope broke. Bad news, my friends. The rope was retied, with about six feet of space between the two cars now. I was so nervous that we were going to rearend that Tata everytime we stopped that I had to switch seats and move to the back.



The journey back took about two hours, but contained some very amusing parts. We got stopped at every UN and police checkpoint along the way, shouts from local children and stares from the adults (look at the white people!), and once back towards the city, a few people trying to get us in trouble with the law ('arrest that car!' not us, the car. Apparently a smaller car is not allowed to tow a larger car in Liberia. We'll just add that to the list of laws not followed here, but since we were white, all of the sudden everyone wanted to see it followed and see us punished for not following it. I can't really blame them.) We also passed some UN tanks cruising down the road as well.







Once we got back to the city, dropped off the car, and learned that it wouldn't be fixed within the day, we had to do a little more planning. Should we find another car? Should we go down today if we found one, or should we wait till the morning? Well, we found a car to take and decided to go down that night so we could start our day off in Robertsport tomorrow. The next journey was less exciting, though we did get stopped by a police officer who was conducting a national and international car check. Basically he looked at our car, took some information, and decided that we weren't carrying illegal arms out of the city. It would seem more important to make sure people weren't carrying arms into the city, but whatevs. We were in a hatchback car this time, with the pickup behind us. Now the pickup has a cover over the bed of the truck so you can't really see inside of it. We told the officer that the pickup was with us and he didn't even check it. I'm just saying, if either of our cars were carrying illegal supplies including weapons, it would've been the covered pickup with all that empty space in the bed.

We stayed at Nana's Lodge, the same place the full moon party took place at a few weeks ago. Basically our accommodations were built platforms with big tents covering them. Inside the tents are two double beds, two small tables, and two big chairs. When we arrived we knew we'd probably only be able to spend one night in the tents as there was a New Year's Eve wedding planned for the next day and all the tents were needed for that. We planned to camp on the beach for new year's eve night. As it turns out, someone didn't make it for the wedding and they told us to stay in our tent. On top of that, we were invited to the wedding and the reception that evening. While some of the group went to the ceremony, my, Jen, and Andrew went to an abondoned hotel just down the beach and watched the ceremony and sunset from the second floor. It was lovely.
After the ceremony, we were also invited to the reception. Now I felt a bit odd about attending this reception, but I went with my friends anyway and it turned out to be fantastic. Like I said, it was a small wedding, so everyone was seated at tables on the beach. There were tents set up for food and speakers, and the tables were lit with candle centerpieces. The tables were in a circle so that dancing could happen in the middle. Dancing in sand is harder than it looks. The reception had an open bar with champagne, wine and beer, and liquor. It was good timing for New Year’s Eve. As the evening got later, most people stayed around to enjoy the party. Two bonfires were lit at different spots on the beach and the sky was clear. The night wasn’t cool, but it also wasn’t hot. We hung around, drank, danced, had good conversations, danced with the Liberian children who joined us. It was lots of fun. After midnight, we went for another swim in the ocean. There was phosphorescence in the water. Everytime you moved, the water around your body glowed with little sparks. It was fantastic. Look up and the stars were shining in a clear sky, look down and sparks were glowing everytime you moved. We got out and I dried off by the bonfire. I went upstairs to change into dry clothes, but ended up coming back down. I took a short, ‘accidental’ nap by the bonfire. When I woke up, we danced a little more and chatted before finally going to bed. Needless to say, we won the party once again, just like we did the first time we were in Robertsport.

The next day was perfect for lounging and relaxing. There’s nothing like napping on the beach in the shade with the ocean just a few meters away. I went for a few swims throughout the day, read a bit of the book I brought, wrote in my journal, and listened to music. A wonderful, relaxing day where I didn’t have to worry about school, the city, how I was going to get somewhere, or what was going on at work. I didn’t want to leave. But alas, it was time. We packed up the two cars for the journey back, paid our bill, and peaced out. Luckily, the journey back was not quite as adventurous as the way there. We made decent time, passed by many Liberian New Year parties, and had no break downs, accidents, or stops by the police. Got back to Monrovia, grabbed some dinner, and watched Tombstone. I’m sorry to say I fell asleep during the movie, so I’ll have to catch that one again later…

Christmas in Liberia

'Tis the season and all that jazz, but in Liberia, things are a bit different. For starters, the temperature here is consistently reading 90 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. There is no fall, no winter, no snow, no dip in temps to make it feel like it's Christmas. Secondly, the Christmas decorations are a bit different. While I appreciate the effort put forth by some of the people living here, Liberia could most likely win a 'most tacky Christmas' award due to the amount of shiny tinsel trees and gold 'Merry Christmas' banners. Think Chinese imports and you'll get the picture. Also, everyone asks for money around this time. The very Liberian saying is 'My Christmas is on you.' Well, let's just say it makes you feel a little guilty thinking that the person isn't going to have Christmas, but at the same time you get pretty tired of hearing it pretty fast. I have to remind myself that $5 is not a lot of money to me, but to someone else it is. I did give money to a few people, but usually those I knew, whether it was the woman who worked at the grocery store, the beggar whom I speak with on a regular basis, or one of the guards on the compound who has done something nice for me. There are moments where I wish I could give to more, but there are a lot of downfalls with that, including seeing your money spent (and not always, just sometimes) on unnecessary or unsavory things. It's hard to live in a poverty stricken country at this time of the year, but it's also very eye opening to what Christmas is and should be rather than the commercialized version we celebrate back home. I went out on Christmas day to pop some bread in a friend's oven and was greeted with Merry Christmases by just about every Liberian I passed. Very few were looking for money, but rather just rejoicing in the day and that made me feel very happy and uplifted. I can't resist a smile and a 'Merry Christmas' to say the least.

To celebrate the holiday, a had a few people over for Christmas brunch. There were about ten of us total, eating pancakes and potatoes, banana bread and eggs, and of course, lots of coffee. It was delightful. My apartment's a bit small for ten people and cooking food, but we made it work and had lots of fun in the process. There was also a bit of fake snow spraying on the windows from a 'Waldo' (think Where's Waldo) look-alike, and some crossword puzzling going on. Fantastic. After brunch, a few people left to do other things, the rest of us went to the pool. Swimming, sunning, and gazing at the beach are not usually on my list of things to do on Christmas day, but in the tradition of making new traditions, this is exactly what happened. A few chicken fights and exhilirating games of tips later, we retired back to my very cool apartment. Most places that my friends live don't have a/c, or at least don't have it for almost the whole day. They really appreciate taking advantage of my a/c when they can, and I'm happy to share, as I love having company since I've started living by myself and all. Naps and a movie followed. Lots of lounging later, we headed out to dinner at Mamba Point Hotel. By this time our numbers had dwindled to six, though I believe that's a great number for a more intimate dinner celebration. Debbie, Andrew, Matt, Jen, John, and I enjoyed a lovely dinner and few pictures in front of the Christmas tree in the restaurant before heading home. I also managed to sneak in a phone call with the fam to catch up on Christmas festivities in that part of the world and send Christmas greetings all around. It was strange not spending the holiday with them, but I've realized I've become part of a different sort of family over here. We spend lots of time together and go through things here that help bring us together--like the holidays. While I was sad to not be home, I am very grateful that the holidays were still filled with fantastic people and good times.


Friday the 19th was our last day of school before the holiday break. Before the break the school completed a clothing drive. I was able to take the clothing we collected and give it to an organization that really put it to good use. The group, called Orphan Relief and Rescue, works with orphanages in Liberia, helping them feed, clothe, and bring medical care to the children living within them. The in-country people who work for the organization have become good friends of mine. They were part of the group with whom I spent Christmas. I was lucky enough to be able to spend time with them sorting clothes and creating gift bundles for the kids. Even luckier, I went with them to distribute these things to two orphanages right before Christmas. Each child received a new outfit from the donated clothes (from school families and other donors), a new pair of slippers (flip-flop), and a gift bundle with a toy, some candy, a toothbrush, etc. Check out the link below to view the video that one of the guys made of us handing out these things and the kids. It's not very long, but it really gives you a great picture of what they're doing here and the kids that they're serving.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83PFkUf5a8Y

This video makes me smile everytime I watch it.

The good things

I tend to spend a lot of time on here writing about the interesting and not-so-good aspects of Liberia. I think that this place is so different it's easier to write about these things in order to describe my life here. There are many good things, too, they're just harder to remember when you saw someone peeing on the side of the road or your shower and power cut out when you were in the middle of washing your hair (my morning, both). This past weekend, however, was a great example of some of the good times and beauty of Liberia.
A few friends of mine planned a party this weekend at Robertsport. Robertsport is about 2-2 1/2 hours away from Monrovia. Let me just say any opportunity to get out of the city is a good one. The drive isn't so bad for the most part, though the last 40 minutes or so can be a bit painful as the road's very potholed. Robertsport is a beach town. It sits right on the coast, about 30 minutes from the Sierra Leone border. It's beautiful. Also, as it's away from the city, it's much cleaner.
It was a full moon themed party, so we spent the night there at an eco-lodge set up by some South Africans. Basically, there are two double beds set up on platforms covered by tents. The rooms also have a fan, a small table, and two chairs. The water at Robertsport was beautiful for our weekend getaway: clear, calm, warm, just gorgeous. The sand is soft and not as trashy as the sand at Monrovia's finest. The lodge also has a bar and serves food, so we sat around and had a few drinks while we enjoyed the sun, sunset, and full moon. They even made a bonfire out on the beach later into the night. It was wonderful. I met some new great people who will hopefully turn into great friends. Just being away from Monrovia has improved my mood so much, I'm more relaxed and less stressed out. A much needed break from the city!
Other than that, school gets out on Friday for winter break. Though I'm not doing anything, I'm much looking forward to the two weeks off. I love my kids, but sometime's everyone needs a break from each other. I plan to relax, celebrate Christmas with some friends (though I wish I could celebrate it with everyone back home!), and read. Oh reading, I'm so excited!
Be in touch, everyone. I miss you all like crazy and don't hear from you often enough :) I love you guys!

Jailbreak!

Check it out...This is Liberia.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/programmes/from_our_own_correspondent/6272043.stm

Apparently the number rose to 150-200 later. No one ever seems to know exactly what's going on. I've also heard three different stories about how they escaped. Some say it's an inside job, others are saying the workers were on a sort of strike, and finally someone said the inmates simply threw bottles and stones at the unarmed guards (the whole disarmament thing) and they let them out. Who knows?

the experience of an ex-pat at Thanksgiving

As Thanksgiving approached last week, I wasn't too excited. I was bummed about being away from home, eating Thanksgiving day dinner with a bunch of people I didn't know, and not being able to spend the whole morning baking and preparing. I was pleasantly surprised at how much fun I had this year during this American holiday, though. I went to the US Embassy where a dinner was being held at the ambassador's residence. About 50 people attended. It was in a potluck style, everyone brought something, and the ambassador provided the turkeys. It was a beautiful day (a bit hot) and her porch overlooks the ocean where the sun was setting. There was a ship that had been tugged out to sea, but which had made its way back to the shore and had been pushed into the sand not far off the shore. It hadn't been there very long, but it sure looked like it had. Between the weather (hot and sunny during the day, rainy season earlier) and people pillaging it (there's really no better word), the ship looked like it had been sitting out there for years. I talked to some people I knew, some I didn't. Met the Peace Corps volunteers who are here (one of whom recently fell through a roof and has to return to Washington for a broken hand.) Also talked with some people that I've met very briefly before and got to know them better. All in all, not a bad way to spend a holiday which is synonymous with family and football for me.
I went to a friend's house after Thanksgiving and watched a movie. As I had Friday off from school as well, we went out that night to the Red Lion. This is supposed to be an English Pub. In all actuality, while it may be the closest thing, it's not really like an English pub. It is, however, a nice place to go for a few drinks with friends. It's often pretty calm and low-key, except on Wednesday and Saturday nights when there is live music. We met up with some of the marines from the Embassy as well as some guys who work for UNMIL through the US military. Basically we were hanging out with guys from the Navy and Marines, which is amusing in itself. Another good time of being relaxed and just hanging out with good people.
I guess I'm learning to live on my own during my time here. It's a strange new reality for me. I have no family here, no roommates, no pets. I do have friends, though, and they are pretty amazing. I'm learning how to make do at my job, with my social life, and with my new lifestyle (which involves less vegetarian food being readily available.) It's a struggle at times, but plenty rewarding as well. If nothing else, I've already met a few great people along the way and learned a lot about what I can handle.

Election Night in Monrovia and the Marine Ball

There are two things that have happened here in Monrovia recently that I have yet to post about, so let me take a few minutes to do that now. First, I will share with you the experience of an expat living in Monrovia on the eve of American elections. Then, I will tell you about the experience of attending the Marine Ball here in Monrovia.

The elections were a huge deal here. It's one of the first things people want to talk about when they find out you're an American. In fact, it seemed to be the only thing expats and Americans wanted to talk about too. Liberians were super excited for Obama. African nations are ready to see a black man lead a powerful nation like the US. It's a sign of hope for them, too, especially here where things are still broken from the war. Go Obama signs are even for sale here (though you'll find a few McCain ones as well). As you all know, I attended an Obama fundraiser earlier. It's great to be among a group of people who are legitimately concerned about the world we live in in more ways than one. Most people here are working for NGOs or are doing something to try to make this country better and most are concerned about the election and what it's results would mean for the rest of the world.

An election night party had been planned for a while by the time that election night rolled around. At last count something like 65-ish people had RSVP'd to show up. The party started at 10pm and was scheduled to run into the early morning hours (with the time delay, the first results didn't begin to show here until about 11pm.) There were food and drinks for all. A magician came from an NGO called, are you ready?, Magicians Without Borders. At first when I heard this name, I thought it was way corny and I couldn't wait to see if this guy was going to be a huge nerd. When he started talking to us about the NGO while preparing for his magic show, I knew that he was legit and had a pretty great idea. He and his wife started the group years ago. They travel around to different refugee camps and put on magic shows for the people there. They have been all over the world doing this for many years. He just happened to be in Monrovia on election night, learned about the party, and asked if he could stop by and perform a show. Of course they said yes. He was pretty fantastic. Put on a good show that I thoroughly enjoyed.
The place that was having the party was a duplex, so one side had the party and sheet with a projector on it and the other side had a few matresses so people could catch a little sleep if they needed to do so. There was also a tent and chairs set up out back with another sheet and projector combo. This was great as the house got incredibly hot and it ended up being a somewhat hot, but pretty nice night. At 2:30am, there was a caterer who served breakfast. It was delicious. Her name is Rozi and I think she's catered just about big event I've been to here in Liberia. She's a good cook and quite popular around here. We watched in anticipation as states began turning blue and red. When Virginia went blue, I received a few hugs and high-fives, taking great pride in the fact that my state made the right decision. The election results were announced at around 4:00am and we stayed around to hear Obama's speech. I finally got home around 5:30am. It was a long night, but well worth it. Luckily, Liberian Thanksgiving was on Thursday, so we had Thursday and Friday off from school which gave me some recovery time.

This past weekend I went to the Marine Corp Ball with a few friends. There aren't any reasons to really get dressed up in Liberia, so it was nice to do this for once. It was held at the Royal Hotel here in town. It's not a very fancy place, but it's what we have and it looked very nice for the event. I went with my friend, John, who is from Florida. We had a really great time. We went with some other friends. Open bar, dinner, dancing...what more could you ask for? There are only 8 or 9 marines posted here at the embassy, so it was smallish affair. The ambassador was there, of course, and the speaker was a retired marine who graduated from Darden at UVA. Go 'Hoos! He and I talked about UVA and Charlottesville for a few minutes. After the ball, we went out dancing some more. Met up with our friends at the only club in Liberia and continued the evening. The hem of my dress is ruined now, as the floor at Deja Vu is quite dirty, but it was fun. It was also fun to be some of the only people there in our formal attire. A few others from the ball were there as well. All in all, a good night.

Okay, I'll end there for now. Check back in a week or so (since it takes me at least that long to post) for some other great stories.

Chimps

I have a lot to say, but for now I just want to post a quick note before I head to bed. Today I went to the beach. Sundays are a great day for relaxing, eating brunch, going to the beach, etc...
It was the first time I had been to this particular beach and it was quite crowded. One of the families there had brought their pet chimp, Joe. They caught me looking at Joe as I walked by and invited me to stop and say hello to him. As soon as I got close enough, Joe tried to crawl into my arms. He had his arms outstretched and was all but hugging and clinging to me. Joe was tied up to a post, so he couldn't actually reach my body, but boy was he trying. Joe may be one of the cutest animals I've ever met. He kept hugging me, playing with me, he even held my hand. It's amazing how similar our hands are. When my friend took a picture of us, Joe even looked at the camera and smiled. It was one of those events that really made my day. Joe was super sweet and I fell for him...hard. Unfortunately he kept trying to bite my friends (in a playful manner, of course) and kept getting in trouble from his owner, so we left him, but not before one last cuddle where he laid his little round, furry head in my lap. Oh Joe, I think I love you....

Stay tuned for a post about election night in Monrovia, end of the first quarter news, and my favorite supermarket!